The Bernina Express is a year-round UNESCO World Heritage scenic rail service operated by the Rhaetian Railway, connecting Chur in the Swiss canton of Graubünden to Tirano in northern Italy over the spectacular Bernina Pass at 2,253 metres — one of the highest and most breathtaking railway crossings in the world.

Why the Bernina Express Matters

Few train journeys on earth combine engineering audacity, natural grandeur and cultural depth in the way the Bernina Express does. In 2008, the Rhaetian Railway in the Albula and Bernina landscapes was inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List — a recognition shared with only a handful of railway lines globally. The inscription acknowledged not just the scenery but the extraordinary feat of civil engineering that makes the route possible: spiral tunnels, looping viaducts, and steep gradients that allow a narrow-gauge railway to cross an Alpine pass without rack-and-pinion assistance.

The full journey takes approximately 4 hours and 20 minutes and crosses an international border, transitioning from the German and Romansh-speaking culture of Graubünden into the Italian-speaking warmth of the Valtellina. That cultural shift, combined with the dramatic change in landscape — from glaciated peaks to Mediterranean terraces — is part of what makes this one of Europe's most rewarding rail experiences.

History and Significance

The Bernina line opened in stages between 1908 and 1910, a period when Alpine railway construction was at its most ambitious. Unlike many mountain railways of the era, the Bernina line was built to operate year-round — a deliberate and technically demanding decision that required the railway to manage extreme winter conditions at altitude. It was electrified from the outset, initially using alternating current, which was progressive for the time.

The Bernina Express as a branded panoramic service came later, evolving through the latter half of the twentieth century to meet the demand for high-quality scenic travel. Today it is one of the flagship products of the Rhaetian Railway (Rhätische Bahn, RhB), Switzerland's largest private railway network and the backbone of transport in Graubünden.

The Route: Chur to Tirano

The journey begins in Chur, the oldest city in Switzerland and the capital of Graubünden. Trains head south through the Rhine Valley before climbing into the Albula section — though the classic Bernina Express itinerary picks up momentum as it ascends toward the pass.

Key points along the route include:

  • Filisur — gateway to the Albula section and the iconic Landwasser Viaduct, a curved, six-arched stone bridge that has become the visual symbol of the entire UNESCO railway.
  • Preda and the Albula Tunnel — the train passes through the high Albula region before descending toward the Engadine valley.
  • St. Moritz — the world-famous resort town serves as an intermediate hub; some passengers join or leave here. The Bernina Express continues south from St. Moritz toward the pass itself.
  • Ospizio Bernina (2,253 m) — the summit station, the highest point on any non-rack railway in the Alps, surrounded by glaciers and high-altitude lakes. The Lago Bianco reservoir here is a defining image of the journey.
  • Alp Grüm — a remote station perched above a dramatic south-facing drop, offering sweeping views toward Italy and the Poschiavo valley.
  • Poschiavo — a charming Swiss Italian village in the southern valley, with Romanesque architecture and a distinct Mediterranean feel.
  • Tirano — the Italian terminus, a market town in Lombardy where the narrow-gauge train famously runs through the streets on embedded tracks to reach the station.

The Onboard Experience

The Bernina Express runs dedicated panoramic coaches with large, curved windows designed to maximise views on both sides of the train. Seating is arranged so passengers face the windows, and commentary is available in multiple languages via an audio guide system.

The coaches are narrow-gauge but thoughtfully designed, with comfortable seating and a dining/bistro car where refreshments and light meals are served. The ambience is relaxed rather than formal — this is a scenic excursion as much as a transport connection, and most passengers are there to absorb the landscape rather than to commute.

Standard and first-class seating is available. First class offers wider seats and a more spacious feel, which many travellers find worthwhile given the length of the journey. Seat reservations are required on the Bernina Express — this is non-negotiable and applies even to holders of Swiss Travel Pass or Eurail/Interrail passes, which cover the fare but not the reservation supplement.

Seasonal Patterns and When to Go

Unlike some Alpine tourist railways, the Bernina Express operates throughout the year — a point of genuine distinction. Each season offers a different character:

  • Winter — snow-covered glaciers, frozen lakes, and a true high-Alpine atmosphere. The journey can feel otherworldly above the snowline. Visibility is sometimes limited by cloud, but the drama more than compensates.
  • Spring — snowmelt creates waterfalls and the southern valleys turn green early, while the higher sections remain wintry.
  • Summer — peak season. Lago Bianco is ice-free, wildflowers are abundant at altitude, and the full contrast between the Alpine north and Mediterranean south is most vivid.
  • Autumn — larch forests turn golden across Graubünden, and the crowds thin. Many experienced travellers consider this the finest time of year for the journey.

Summer and holiday weekends book up well in advance. If your dates are fixed, secure your reservation as early as possible.

How to Book

Reservations and tickets are managed through the Rhaetian Railway's official website at rhb.ch. The site allows you to book panoramic coach seats and add the compulsory reservation. Swiss Travel Pass holders and Eurail/Interrail pass holders pay a reduced fare but must still purchase the reservation separately.

Point-to-point tickets without a rail pass are also available and are often competitive, particularly if booked ahead. As with most European rail, prices tend to be lower when purchased in advance rather than at the station. Third-party rail booking platforms also list the service, though booking directly with RhB ensures the most accurate information on availability.

If you are combining this journey with broader Swiss or European rail travel, TravelerPulse.pro's My Travel Hub is a useful place to organise your itinerary across multiple legs and transport modes.

RhB ABe 4 4 III 56 and 51 Lago Bianco
RhB ABe 4 4 III 56 and 51 Lago Bianco

Connections and Getting There

Chur is well connected to the Swiss national rail network. Direct InterCity trains run from Zurich Hauptbahnhof to Chur in under 80 minutes, making it straightforward to arrive from Zurich Airport on the same day. Basel and Bern also have direct or easy connections.

At the Tirano end, the Italian rail network connects onward to Lecco and Milan. The journey from Tirano to Milan by train takes roughly two to two-and-a-half hours, making a one-way crossing from Switzerland to Italy — or vice versa — a practical as well as scenic option. If you are entering Italy for the first time on this trip, check any visa requirements at travelerPulse.pro/visas well before departure.

A popular approach is to travel the Bernina Express one-way and return via a different route, such as bus connection through the Maloja Pass or a different rail corridor through the Engadine.

Compared to the Alternatives

Flying between Chur (or Zurich) and Milan is faster in elapsed time but involves airports on both ends and loses the landscape entirely. Driving over the Bernina Pass on the Bernina road is possible in summer, but the road closes in winter, and driving cannot replicate the vantage points — particularly on the viaducts and at altitude — that the railway uniquely provides. The train is simply the right tool for this crossing.

Within Switzerland's scenic rail portfolio, the Bernina Express is most often compared with the Glacier Express (St. Moritz to Zermatt). The Glacier Express is longer and more famous by name; the Bernina Express is generally considered more dramatic in terms of raw altitude change and landscape variety. The two share the St. Moritz hub and can be combined into a multi-day itinerary.

Practical Tips

  • Sit on the left side of the train travelling from Chur to Tirano for the best views of the Landwasser Viaduct; the right side is better above the Bernina Pass toward Alp Grüm.
  • Bring layers — the temperature at the 2,253 m summit station can be significantly colder than at either end, even in summer.
  • The audio commentary is included in the reservation and covers the key landmarks in English, German, Italian, French, and other languages.
  • Allow time in Tirano before returning — the Basilica of the Madonna di Tirano is immediately adjacent to the station and worth a visit.
  • If you have a flexible schedule, consider the slower regional train option on the same line, which is cheaper and allows hop-on-hop-off stops at intermediate stations.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is a reservation always required on the Bernina Express?

Yes. Seat reservations are mandatory on all Bernina Express panoramic coach services, regardless of whether you hold a Swiss Travel Pass, Eurail Pass, or point-to-point ticket. The reservation must be booked separately and in advance, particularly during busy periods.

Can I break the journey and stop at intermediate stations?

If you have a point-to-point Bernina Express ticket for a specific train, you are generally committed to that service. However, holders of rail passes travelling on regional RhB trains (rather than the branded Bernina Express service) have more flexibility to board and alight at stations along the route. Check the specific conditions with RhB when booking.

Does the train cross an international border, and do I need documentation?

Yes — the route crosses from Switzerland into Italy at Campocologno, just north of Tirano. Switzerland is not in the European Union's Schengen area in the same administrative sense as Italy, though in practice this border crossing is typically seamless for holders of EU/EEA passports and those with valid Schengen visas. Non-EU travellers should verify current entry requirements before travel.

Is the Bernina Express accessible for passengers with reduced mobility?

The Rhaetian Railway has made efforts to improve accessibility on the route, but the narrow-gauge infrastructure presents some limitations compared to mainline trains. Contact RhB directly in advance to discuss your specific requirements and arrange any necessary assistance.

Conclusion

The Bernina Express is not simply a way to travel between Switzerland and Italy — it is one of the genuinely great railway journeys of the world. The combination of UNESCO-recognised engineering, extreme altitude, cross-border cultural contrast, and year-round operation places it in a very small category of train journeys that reward the effort completely. Whether you are a dedicated rail traveller or simply looking for an extraordinary day out in the Alps, the four hours and twenty minutes between Chur and Tirano are unlikely to disappoint.