Overview
Varanasi — also known as Kashi or Benares — sits on the western bank of the Ganges River in the state of Uttar Pradesh (not Bihar, as it is commonly misattributed). It is widely regarded as one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities on Earth, with a history spanning at least 3,000 years. For Hindus it is among the most sacred places in the world: dying here is believed to grant moksha, or liberation from the cycle of rebirth.
The city's roughly 80 ghats — broad stone staircases descending to the river — are its defining feature. Pilgrims bathe, priests perform rituals, and cremations take place in open-air settings, all in the same stretch of riverfront. This combination of the everyday and the profound gives Varanasi a quality unlike almost any other city.
Beyond its spiritual character, Varanasi is a living centre of classical music, Sanskrit scholarship, and fine silk weaving. Banaras Hindu University, founded in 1916, is one of Asia's largest residential universities and adds an intellectual dimension to the city's identity.
Note on geography: Varanasi is located in Uttar Pradesh, not Bihar. The two states share a border nearby, and travellers sometimes conflate them. Verify your destination when booking transport.
Before You Go
Visas
Most international visitors to India require a visa. Requirements vary significantly by nationality. Check TravelerPulse's Visas section and consult the official Indian immigration authority or your nearest Indian consulate for current, binding information before you travel.
Health
- Consult a travel medicine clinic well before departure. Hepatitis A, typhoid, and tetanus vaccinations are commonly recommended for travel to this region.
- Water from taps and the Ganges itself should not be consumed. Drink bottled or filtered water throughout your stay.
- Mosquito-borne illnesses including dengue and malaria are present in parts of Uttar Pradesh; carry appropriate repellent and, if advised by your doctor, prophylactics.
- Air quality in Varanasi can be poor, particularly in winter months when fog and pollution combine. Travellers with respiratory conditions should monitor air quality indices.
Practical preparation
- Download an offline map (Google Maps or Maps.me work well) before arrival — narrow old-city lanes are difficult to navigate.
- Carry small-denomination rupee notes; many smaller establishments and boat operators work cash-only.
- Dress conservatively, especially at religious sites — covered shoulders and legs are expected at temples and ghats.
Getting There
By air
Lal Bahadur Shastri International Airport (VNS) is located approximately 26 km north of the city centre. It receives domestic flights from major Indian cities including Delhi, Mumbai, Kolkata, and Bengaluru. International connections are limited; most overseas travellers connect through Delhi or Mumbai. Confirm current route availability with airlines or a booking platform before planning.
By train
Varanasi Junction (BSB) and Manduadih Station (now officially renamed Banaras Station) are the two main railway stations. Varanasi is well-connected to Delhi (roughly 8–12 hours depending on service), Kolkata, Agra, and other major cities. Train travel is generally the most comfortable and reliable surface option. Book tickets through the official IRCTC website or app in advance, especially around major festivals.
By road
Long-distance buses connect Varanasi to nearby cities such as Allahabad (Prayagraj), Lucknow, and Gorakhpur. Journey times can be long and conditions vary considerably by operator. Private taxis can be hired for inter-city travel; verify pricing before you depart.
Getting Around
Within the old city
Many of the most important ghats and temples in the old city (Vishwanath Gali area) are accessible only on foot through extremely narrow lanes. Auto-rickshaws and cycle-rickshaws can reach the edges of this area. Allow extra time and be prepared to walk the last stretch.
Auto-rickshaws and e-rickshaws
These are the most common way to move between neighbourhoods. Agree on a fare before boarding, as meters are rarely used. E-rickshaws (battery-powered three-wheelers) are increasingly common and somewhat cleaner.
Boats on the Ganges
Hiring a rowing boat is both a practical way to travel between ghats and one of the more memorable experiences in the city. Fixed pricing at official ghats may be posted; verify before accepting a quote. Sunrise and sunset are the most popular times, and prices tend to reflect this.
App-based transport
Ola and Rapido operate in Varanasi. Coverage and driver availability can be inconsistent in the old city but are generally reliable for airport runs and longer city crossings.
Things to See & Do
The Ghats
Walking the ghats from Assi Ghat in the south to Raj Ghat in the north is a full day's undertaking covering more than 80 individual steps. Key stops include Dashashwamedh Ghat (the main bathing and ceremony ghat), Manikarnika Ghat (one of the principal Hindu cremation sites — observe respectfully and follow local guidance on photography), and Assi Ghat, which has a more relaxed atmosphere and is popular with students and long-term visitors.
Ganga Aarti
Every evening at Dashashwamedh Ghat, a coordinated fire-offering ceremony takes place at sunset. Priests perform choreographed rituals with lamps, incense, and chants. Arrive early to find a good viewing position; the ceremony draws large crowds. A smaller aarti also takes place each morning. Attending from a boat gives an unobstructed view.
Temples
- Kashi Vishwanath Temple: One of the most sacred Shiva temples in Hinduism. Access for non-Hindus has historically been restricted or controlled — verify current policies before visiting. A security check is standard.
- Durga Temple (Durga Kund): An 18th-century temple dedicated to the goddess Durga, built in the Nagara style. More accessible to general visitors.
- Tulsi Manas Temple: Built in the 1960s, this temple commemorates the site where the poet Tulsidas is said to have written the Ramcharitmanas.
Sarnath
Located about 10 km from Varanasi, Sarnath is where the Buddha delivered his first sermon after attaining enlightenment. The Dhamek Stupa, the archaeological museum, and multiple monastery complexes make it a significant Buddhist heritage site and an easy half-day trip.
Banaras Hindu University & Bharat Kala Bhavan
The university campus is worth a walk for its scale and the Vishwanath Temple within its grounds. The Bharat Kala Bhavan museum on campus holds a notable collection of miniature paintings, sculptures, and textiles — verify opening hours locally before visiting.
Food & Drink
What to eat
Varanasi's food culture is predominantly vegetarian, shaped by its religious character. Street food is central to the culinary experience here.
- Kachori sabzi: Flaky deep-fried bread served with spiced potato or lentil curry, a common breakfast dish.
- Baati chokha: A Bihari-influenced dish of baked wheat balls served with roasted vegetables, found in some restaurants.
- Chaat: Various preparations of fried dough, yogurt, tamarind, and spices, sold at virtually every street corner.
- Malaiyo / Makhan Malai: A seasonal (winter) dessert made from whipped milk foam, delicate and lightly sweet — found primarily in the old city lanes in the cooler months.
- Thandai and lassi: Cooling milk-based drinks widely available; the famous Blue Lassi shop near Vishwanath Gali has been operating for decades.
- Paan: The betel leaf preparation is a local institution; Varanasi paan is considered among the best in India.
Where to eat
Restaurants clustered around Assi Ghat cater to a mix of domestic and international visitors and offer a relatively varied menu. The old city lanes have more traditional and street-oriented options. Rooftop restaurants overlooking the ghats exist at multiple guesthouses — quality varies, so check recent traveller reviews.
Alcohol
Varanasi is not a notable drinking destination; many establishments in the religious core do not serve alcohol. Alcohol is available at licensed restaurants and hotels, primarily away from the immediate ghat area. Verify locally.
Shopping
Varanasi is one of India's most important centres for handwoven silk. Banarasi silk saris — characterised by fine weave, gold and silver zari (metallic thread) brocade work, and rich colours — are recognised globally and carry a Geographical Indication (GI) tag. Buyers should be aware that machine-made and synthetic imitations are common; purchase from established weavers or cooperative outlets and ask about the fabric composition.
The old city lanes, particularly around Vishwanath Gali and the Thatheri Bazaar area, sell brass and bronze ware, wooden toys, rudraksha beads, and religious items. Prices are generally negotiable at smaller shops.
Godowlia is one of the main commercial intersections and a good starting point for general shopping. For a more transparent and fixed-price experience, government craft emporia are an option — verify current locations locally.
Be cautious of commission-based tours from guesthouse staff or touts directing you to specific silk shops; this is a well-documented practice in the city.
Practical Information
Money
ATMs are available throughout the city, though they can run out of cash around major festivals. Carry some cash at all times, particularly in small denominations, for ghats, boats, and street food.
Connectivity
SIM cards with data can be purchased at the airport or from authorised telecom retailers in the city. Foreign nationals must present a passport and a local address. Coverage in most of the city is adequate for navigation and communication.
Electricity
India uses 230V/50Hz. Plug types are predominantly Type C, D, and M. Bring a universal adapter.
Medical
Several hospitals operate in the city; for anything serious, Banaras Hindu University's Sir Sunderlal Hospital is one of the larger public medical institutions. Verify contact details and location locally before you need them.
Emergency numbers
- Police: 100
- Ambulance: 108
- Fire: 101
(Confirm these are current before travel, as service delivery can vary by location.)
Safety
Varanasi is a major pilgrimage and tourist destination visited by millions annually without serious incident. However, standard urban precautions apply.
- Touts and scams: The old city has a significant population of touts operating around the ghats, guesthouses, and tourist sites. Common approaches include offers of free boat rides (leading to silk shop visits), fake 'tourist offices,' and inflated prices for transport and goods. Polite but firm refusals and doing your own research before arriving helps considerably.
- Photography at cremation ghats: Manikarnika and Harishchandra ghats are active cremation sites. Photography of funeral pyres and grieving families is widely considered deeply disrespectful and has led to confrontations. If in doubt, put the camera away entirely at these sites.
- River safety: Avoid swimming in the Ganges. Currents are strong in places, and water quality presents significant health risks regardless of religious significance for pilgrims.
- Crowds and festivals: During major festivals such as Dev Deepawali and the Kumbh Mela cycle (when Varanasi draws pilgrims heading to nearby Prayagraj), the city becomes extremely crowded. Petty theft in packed spaces increases; keep valuables secure.
- Solo travellers: The city is navigated by solo travellers of all backgrounds regularly. Standard awareness in crowded, unfamiliar places applies.
Local Culture & Etiquette
Varanasi operates on a rhythm shaped by ritual: the day begins before dawn with bathing pilgrims and morning aarti, and closes with the evening ceremony at Dashashwamedh. Visitors who align with this rhythm — getting up early, walking the ghats at sunrise — tend to have a more genuine experience of the city.
Death is a visible and public part of life in Varanasi in a way unfamiliar to most outsiders. Cremations at the burning ghats are open-air community events, not hidden from view. Approach these spaces with the same respectful discretion you would at a funeral in your own culture.
Varanasi is a centre of Hindustani classical music. Performances and informal gatherings happen in temples, private homes, and occasionally in public spaces. The city produced several of the 20th century's most celebrated musicians. If you have an interest in classical music, ask locally about concerts or recitals during your visit.
Dress modestly throughout your stay. Removing footwear before entering temples is obligatory and expected. Leather items may be unwelcome in some temple precincts — verify before you enter. Asking before photographing individuals — pilgrims, priests, sadhus — is both courteous and often leads to more genuine interactions.