Overview
Varkala is a small coastal town in Thiruvananthapuram district, roughly 50 km north of Kerala's state capital. It sits on a dramatic laterite clifftop — locally called the North Cliff — that drops sharply to a long arc of beach below. This geological feature, combined with a relatively low-key atmosphere compared to Goa or other Indian beach destinations, has made Varkala a long-standing stop on the South India backpacker circuit.
The town has two distinct faces. The clifftop strip is lined with guesthouses, open-air restaurants, yoga studios, and Ayurvedic massage centers catering almost entirely to international and domestic tourists. A short walk or auto-rickshaw ride inland, however, takes you to the real town: a working Kerala community centered on the ancient Janardhana Swami Temple, local markets, and a busy fishing harbor at Odayam.
Varkala is also a pilgrimage site. The Janardhana Swami Temple, believed to be over 2,000 years old, draws Hindu pilgrims year-round, and the beach below has ritual significance — ashes of the deceased are traditionally immersed here. Visitors should be aware of this dual character: Varkala is simultaneously a sacred site and a tourist beach town, and both coexist, sometimes uneasily.
Before You Go
Visas
Most foreign nationals require a visa to enter India. Check TravelerPulse's Visas section for general guidance, and confirm current requirements with the official Indian Bureau of Immigration (indianvisaonline.gov.in) or your nearest Indian diplomatic mission well before travel.
Health
No vaccinations are officially required for most travelers arriving from non-yellow-fever zones, but standard travel health precautions for South Asia are advisable — consult a travel medicine clinic. Tap water is not safe to drink; stick to sealed bottled water. Mosquito repellent is recommended, particularly during and just after the monsoon.
What to Pack
- Light, breathable clothing; humidity is high year-round
- Modest clothing for temple visits (shoulders and knees covered; remove footwear at temple entrances)
- High-SPF sunscreen — the beach sun is intense
- A light rain jacket if visiting outside peak dry season
Monsoon Awareness
The Southwest Monsoon typically arrives in early June and can last through September. Sea conditions become rough and swimming is often unsafe. Many clifftop restaurants and guesthouses close or operate reduced hours during this period. Verify current conditions locally if traveling outside November–February.
Getting There
By Air
The nearest airport is Thiruvananthapuram International Airport (TRV), approximately 50 km south of Varkala. It has direct connections to major Indian cities and some international routes (particularly to the Gulf states). From the airport, taxis and pre-paid cabs are available to Varkala; journey time is roughly 60–90 minutes depending on traffic. Verify current fares at the airport taxi counter.
By Train
Varkala Sivagiri railway station is on the main Thiruvananthapuram–Mumbai coastal line and has regular services to Thiruvananthapuram, Kollam, Ernakulam (Kochi), and beyond. Train travel is generally the most practical and affordable option for reaching Varkala from other Kerala destinations. Check schedules and book in advance on the official Indian Railways platform (irctc.co.in).
By Bus
KSRTC (Kerala State Road Transport Corporation) buses connect Varkala to Thiruvananthapuram and Kollam. Private buses also operate on these routes. The main bus stop is in Varkala town, a few kilometers from the clifftop area. Auto-rickshaws bridge the gap between the town center and the cliff.
From Kollam or Thiruvananthapuram
Both cities are feasible day-trip bases, but most visitors choose to stay in Varkala itself given the volume of accommodation on the cliff.
Getting Around
Varkala is small enough that the clifftop area and the beach below are walkable. A steep set of stairs and a few pathways connect the cliff to the beach.
Auto-rickshaws are the standard way to travel between the clifftop, the train station, and the town center. Negotiate the fare before boarding or confirm that the meter is running — verify typical fares locally on arrival, as they change over time.
Scooter and motorcycle rentals are available from several shops near the cliff; check the vehicle condition carefully and ensure you hold an appropriate license valid in India. Roads in town can be busy and narrow.
Taxis can be arranged through guesthouses or app-based services (Ola operates in and around Thiruvananthapuram district; verify coverage in Varkala locally).
Where to Stay
Accommodation in Varkala ranges from very basic guesthouses to comfortable mid-range boutique properties, mostly clustered along the clifftop and in the lanes just behind it. A smaller number of homestays and guesthouses exist in the quieter Odayam/Black Beach area to the north, favored by travelers wanting more distance from the busier cliff strip.
There are no internationally branded chain hotels in Varkala town itself as of widely available knowledge — the accommodation stock is almost entirely independently owned. Standards can be uneven; reading recent reviews on established platforms before booking is strongly advised.
Peak season (December–January) sees high demand and elevated prices. Book well in advance for travel over Christmas and New Year. The shoulder months of November and February offer a reasonable balance of good weather and lower room rates.
Verify current prices directly with properties or booking platforms, as rates fluctuate significantly by season.
Things to See & Do
Beaches
Papanasam Beach directly below the cliff is the main beach and a Hindu pilgrimage site. Swimming is possible in calm conditions (November–February), but check for flags and local advice — there can be undertow in places. Black Beach (Odayam Beach) to the north is quieter and favored by those seeking fewer crowds. Edava Beach further south is largely local and sees almost no tourist traffic.
Janardhana Swami Temple
This ancient Vishnu temple sits above the beach and is one of the oldest active temples in Kerala. Entry is restricted to Hindus in the inner sanctum. Non-Hindu visitors can respectfully view the exterior and the surrounding grounds. Dress modestly and remove footwear.
Yoga and Ayurveda
Varkala has a dense concentration of yoga studios offering drop-in classes and multi-day courses, and Ayurvedic centers offering everything from brief massages to extended treatment programs. Quality and authenticity vary considerably — ask to see practitioners' credentials and read reviews carefully before booking extended treatments.
Sivagiri Mutt
The ashram and resting place of Sree Narayana Guru, a highly influential 19th–20th century social reformer and spiritual leader from Kerala. It is an active pilgrimage site and visitors are welcome to walk the grounds respectfully.
Boat Trips and Backwaters
Day trips into the Kerala backwaters can be arranged from Kollam (30–40 km north), which is the southern terminus of the famous Kollam–Alleppey backwater route. Inquire with local guesthouses or tour operators in Varkala for current options and pricing.
Food & Drink
Clifftop Restaurants
The cliff is lined with open-air restaurants serving a broadly international menu (pasta, sandwiches, hummus, smoothie bowls) alongside Kerala seafood dishes. Quality varies; places with visible fresh catch displayed on ice tend to be reliable choices for fish and prawns. Fresh coconut water is available everywhere and is safe to drink.
Kerala Cuisine
Look for restaurants or local eateries serving authentic Kerala food: fish curry with rice, appam with stew, puttu with kadala curry, and meals served on banana leaves. Moving one or two streets back from the cliff will generally get you more locally oriented food at lower prices.
Alcohol
Kerala has a complex liquor licensing regime. Beer and spirits are available at licensed restaurants on the cliff, but availability can feel inconsistent and prices are typically higher than in states with more liberal licensing. Varkala is not a nightlife destination in the conventional sense.
Food Safety
Stick to freshly cooked, hot food. Be cautious with raw salads, pre-cut fruit, and anything made with unboiled water, particularly during the warmer months. Many travelers experience mild stomach upsets — pack basic remedies.
Practical Information
Money
ATMs are available in Varkala town and a few on the cliff road — carry cash as a backup since machines can run out, particularly on weekends and holidays. Many clifftop restaurants and guesthouses now accept cards or UPI payments, but cash remains widely used for smaller transactions, auto-rickshaws, and local shops.
Connectivity
Mobile data (4G) from major Indian carriers (Jio, Airtel, Vi) generally works well on the cliff and in town. Foreign visitors may need to purchase a local SIM — this requires a passport and a local contact address; verify current registration rules, as they change periodically.
Emergency Contacts
The national emergency number in India is 112 (police, fire, ambulance). The nearest major hospital facilities are in Thiruvananthapuram. Confirm the location of the nearest clinic or hospital with your accommodation on arrival.
Electricity
India uses 230V/50Hz. Plug types are primarily Type C and Type D (the large three-round-pin type). A universal travel adapter is advisable.
Time Saving Tip
The train station is labeled "Varkala Sivagiri" — do not confuse it with other stations. Confirm your stop when booking tickets.
Safety
Varkala is generally considered safe for tourists, including solo travelers and solo women. That said, standard urban travel precautions apply: keep valuables secured, be aware of your surroundings after dark on the cliff paths (lighting can be limited), and use trusted transportation.
Ocean safety is important to take seriously. Rip currents and undertow can occur, and the sea becomes genuinely dangerous during and around monsoon season. Swim only where others are swimming, pay attention to any flag or warning system in place, and never swim alone at night. There is no formalized lifeguard service at all times — verify current safety measures locally.
Petty theft (bag snatching, pickpocketing) does occur, particularly in crowded areas. Keep passports and bulk cash in a secure place at your accommodation.
Women travelers have reported occasional unwanted attention on the beach and cliff path, particularly after dark. Walking with others in the evening and choosing well-lit routes is advisable.
Local Culture & Etiquette
Varkala holds genuine religious significance. Papanasam Beach is used for Hindu funeral rites and other sacred rituals. Visitors should be respectful and unobtrusive when such ceremonies are taking place — do not photograph rituals without clear permission, and give space to mourners.
At the Janardhana Swami Temple and Sivagiri Mutt, modest dress is expected: cover shoulders and knees, remove footwear before entering temple grounds, and keep voices low. These are active places of worship, not tourist attractions.
The cliff-side tourist strip and the town's everyday life coexist but are largely separate. Making an effort to explore beyond the cliff — visiting local markets, eating at non-tourist-facing restaurants, and acknowledging the community that exists independent of tourism — makes for a more honest and rewarding visit.